Custom Performance for Harley Davidson Motorcycles. The dyno seems to have taken over most of the conversations when it comes to talking about better performance. It seems that the dyno is considered the "last word".Albert chriqui
Well it is a wonderful tool, but that is what it is, a tool. It is the only way that the new fuel injection bikes can be tuned. Trying to tune an EFI bike on anything other than a dyno is foolish and a waste of time. Trying to compare your bike to someone else's bike just by looking at a dyno sheet is also not likely to be very accurate.
What the dyno does show is how the bike performs under wide open throttle. If you spend most of your time riding on the dyno then it is good useful information. However if you actually ride on the street you will find the dyno is helpful but not necessarily always the best choice of parts for your riding style.
Everybody sure does like those big horsepower numbers and they surely are good bragging but how does it run when at only part throttle??? What I am saying is don't always look at the biggest numbers but look more at the numbers in the rpm range that you ride.
If you have any questions on dyno sheets just send me a copy and i will be more than happy to explain it to you. But those numbers are for wide open throttle and most of do not ride at WOT very often or very long. Most of us ride in the to rpm range. The dyno sheet shows is a graph from 2, to 6, rpm, the rpm range of most motors. A dyno run is the same as if you were on the highway riding with your buds and you go from cruise to wide open throttle.
The dyno runs are usually done in high gear to make the graph as long as possible and it shows more detail.Solidworks cam 5 axis
Now we need to figure out what rpm range we ride and then look at the graph to see how the power is in that range.
If you never go over rpm then any performance gains over rpm will be useless. If you do not ride there then why would you want to make the bike perform in that range? You would want to examine the rpm range you ride in. Look into my dyno section and you will see a different dyno curve.Run length encoding python github
One that produces good power from 2, rpm to rpm?The Sprocket Twins at Nightrider get hundreds of requests for engine configurations. Riders want the simplest engine to build, the highest power than can get, an engine to beat their friends, an engine to go racing with. In short, every rider wants the ideal engine. They want big power increases and instant throttle response.
They describe thinly discuised race engine sitting in a street bike. What many riders don't want to discuss or hear are the issues associated with these "over the edge" engines such as:. And these are just a portion of the issues you have to face with these "gonzo" engines. Unfortunately, few riders think about this until their dream engine turns into a nightmare 9 months down the road.
After spending a lot of time thinking about what most riders really want versus what they think they want, I decided to come up with my own requirements for a strong engine upgrade package for Twin Cams. It had to meet the following requirements:. That would be a good start on our "universal twin cam". While there probably isn't the perfect street engine for your Twin Cam engine powered bike, this comes as close as I have seen to meeting that definition. You'll notice that I never mentioned a specific horsepower figure in our "perfect engine" needs.
That's because it is too easy to take a single HP or Torque number and take it out of context. A good street engine has a broad torque curve that gets a bike moving quickly and keeps the acceleration going. A good average power number is more important than the maximum number.
If you went to most shops and gave them this list of "wants" for your updated engine, they would probably tell you that it just isn't possible to build this engine. In most circumstances, I'd have to agree with these shops. Then I saw something that complete changed my opinion on what could be built. Most riders have been conditioned to believe that for good power, you had to raise the compression ratio to While most of the lighter Dyna's and Softail's could almost get away with this compression riding around on the street, the heavier Road King's and FLH's tend to have severe detonation issues.
While the EFI knock sensors could stop the detonation issue, they also resulted in much lower power than possible with the higher compression. I had never been a big proponent of high compression engines for heavy bikes, especially when I knew that once compression ratio's exceeded 9. But a high percentage of the HD performance industry insisted on going with these high compression engines in heavy, air cooled bikes. The engineering and physics involved in this never made sense to me.
Enter Wes Brown at CycleRama. Wes' shop in West Central Florida has been building world class engines for all type of bikes for many years. I'm sure Wes got tired of riders asking for big power engines in heavy bikes, then having to "back off the tuning" to handle the way most riders lug their engines around town.If you need to know the best cam for a Harley, then you have come to the right place.
DC V-Twin has been the place to shop for the best cam for a Harley. With a thousand of Harley cams available, from different manufacturers, making the correct choice can sometimes be over whelming.Nbtc abu dhabi careers
Our goal is to make your decision less complicated and put the right cam in your Harley that you will get the results you are after. One of the first steps in picking the best cam for a Harley is to determine what you plan on doing with the bike.
Will you be using the bike for typical street riding and touring for pleasure or will it be an all-out drag bike? The type of riding you do will also be important. Do you mostly ride two up, around town traffic, or do you make long highway trips. Finally, we would like to know your riding style.
Is it aggressive or conservative? Once we have this information then we can start helping you pick the best cam for a Harley. Of course now that we know your riding habits, we will need to know what bike you have and any engine modifications you may have already made. This is very critical, especially with the twin cam engine that has been around since with several different cubic inch versions over the years. Before we jump into picking the best cam for a Harley, we need to bring a couple habits of cam shafts to light as well.
One being that a cam that is too big will result in less than favorable low RPM power. While these bigger cams are necessary in modified engine builds, a more conservative cam may feel stronger to you in your street riding style. Another thing to consider is a cam with longer intake duration will reduce static compression at low speed.
This will reduce low RPM torque. Now, a longer duration cam combined with higher compression will add power to the middle and higher RPMs. This is what most riders are after, but the most important thing is to have the cam match the compression ratio and displacement of the engine, plus having the bike properly tuned. DC V-Twin will pick the best cam for your Harley…………….
Call we are here to help you with some of our favorites below. HP For the rider who really wants the most top end horsepower. Ideal for lighter bikes and racing applications where getting the most horsepower from a stock engine is imperative. MR These bolt in-cams are for the rider who wants more of everything without giving up low end torque for high rpm horsepower, or vice versa.
More power all across the wide power band, from idle to red line. Bolt-in overall. Provides massive horsepower and torque increases starting at rpm and holds steady all the way to redline. Stock valve springs in up engines can accommodate valve lifts up to. Start any engine regardless of displacement or compression ratio, with a stock starter.
These cams also install just as easily as non compression release versions and require no extra parts or machining! Available in both economical chain drive and rock-solid gear drive. Don't get caught "dead" without them!Log in or Sign up.
Bike Talk motorcycle forum. Welcome to Bike Talk, a forum for all bikers and motorcycle enthusiasts. If you are new to Bike Talk, be sure to register for free and join the conversation. There's always someone around willing to help out with questions or give a friendly wave back.
All Harley and metric riders are welcome. Joined: Jul 13, Messages: 6 Likes Received: 0. Also the SE cam. I got a significant boost in torque and hp with the 95" kit, but I'm looking for a little more. I'd like to go to a 2 into 1 pipe. I'm considering Harley's new SE 2 into 1 with the tuneable discs, also the Pro-pipe and the Supertrapp. Any recommendations? I'm also currently running the stock intake manifold and throttle body.
Dyno Runs Graphs
I've also been told by someone else that the larger throttle body and manifold would indeed increase torque and hp. Any thoughts? I've been told two different things by two different shops. By the way, I've also installed Harley's race tuner kit and had the bike tuned on the dyno. GrimmerFeb 23, Well if you got the HTCC domed pistons for Those heads have very large valves in them the ported ones even more so than the non-ported HTCC heads which slows the input and exhaust gas velocity.
What you want is a cam that will open that valve wide open to really fill the combustion chamber with a charge. The cam only has. The Woods TW-6hg has a. Another thing wrong with the in a HP For the rider who really wants the most top end horsepower.
Ideal for lighter bikes and racing applications where getting the most horsepower from a stock engine is imperative. MR These bolt in-cams are for the rider who wants more of everything without giving up low end torque for high rpm horsepower, or vice versa. More power all across the wide power band, from idle to red line.
Does not require tuning. Bolt-in stock. For 88 CID engines with stock compression ratio. Idle rpm. Bolt-in torque. Bolt-in overall. This is a bolt-in cam set designed for stock or mildly modified touring bikes. Greatly improves low-end and midrange torque, strongest from idlerpm.
Both come with our Easy Start automatic compression release feature for quick starts. Excellent bolt-in for overall power on a ". Cams that exceed the limits of the stock valve springs require the use of special high lift springs.
Not all grinds are available in the chain drive version. To get the best performance from a performance cam installation, a high flow intake and exhaust system is also recommended. Start any engine regardless of displacement or compression ratio, with a stock starter. These cams also install just as easily as non compression release versions and require no extra parts or machining! Available in both economical chain drive and rock-solid gear drive.
Don't get caught "dead" without them! The heart of our Easy Start cams is a centrifugally retracted, spring loaded, compression release lobe milled into the heel of each exhaust lobe.
At cranking speeds, the lobe bumps the exhaust valve open slightly during the compression stroke, making the engine much easier to turn over. Once the engine fires and reaches RPM, the lobe swings out of the tappet roller path, allowing the engine to run normally and with full compression. Stock valve springs in up engines can accommodate valve lifts up to.
Shop by Motorcycle. Search Search. Application Cross Reference Chart. Negative values are due to special timing for reduced emissions.Dyno Graphs. Bolt in for engines.2006 Road King FLHR Harley Davidson Run on the Dyno Twin Cam TC88 S&S
Producing strong low and mid range power. An Excellent compromise between the and achieving the best all around performance. Bolt in for 96 and engines. Respondes well to head work and increased compression. Go to bolt in camshaft for engines. Works best with larger displacement engines and added compression.
Will respond well to ported heads and open intake. Requires high lift valve springs. Designed for and larger engines. A workhorse for and engines. Best all around camshaft. Responds well to increased compression. Predecessor to our Aggressive pulling power. Requeires high lift valve springs. Easier to tune and better street manners than the Aggressive camshaft for large displacement engines with ported heads and throttle body.
Will respond well to increased compression and cylinder head work. Will respond well to increased compression and head work. Increased compression is required for bottom end performance. Recommend using with larger displacement. Produces a wide power band to bring your Sporty to a new level of performance with top fuel sound.
For best results this cam should be ran with increased compression. All rights reserved. A real workhorse.Last month, we did the gearcase section of the motor.
Though this may come as a surprise to some of you, even our plans sometimes go awry. It seems the bike we did the build story on was not available for the dyno runs as planned. Ready for a few tips and tricks that should make the job go smoother? Finally, when installing the exhaust, first put everything on loosely. Then go back and tighten everything up, starting at the heads and working your way back.
If you have to force something to line up, or to close a gap, shim it to fit. Do not force it into place or it will crack later on. One more thing: To get the power numbers shown in the dyno sheet, Speed, who is a very experienced tuner, had to spend quite a bit of time dialing in the ignition and carb jet settings.
An average tuner can expect to get lower power numbers, about hp.
Cam Specs & Overview
That said, check out the accompanying photos to see what Jamie Hanson and Jimbo did to install the top end and the dyno chart for how this impressive engine ran. Our opening shot shows where we left off last month: The cam and lifter covers have been reinstalled.Cantonese audiophile songs
Jimbo has also checked the cylinder studs, and they are within spec and reusable. Jimbo wants a gap of 0. After inserting a wrist pin clip into one side of the piston and lubing the wrist pin, Jamie slips the pin part way into the piston.
Jim also installs the dowel in the cylinders. Using a ring compressor, Jimbo installs the assembled piston, with lots of lube on the piston and in the cylinder bore, into its cylinder just enough for the rings to be inside. After putting the rag back into the case bore, Jamie installs the other wrist pin clip into the piston. The rag is then removed once more, so the cylinder can be pushed down onto the case. The lower rocker boxes have to be clearanced around both valve spring packs arrows.
You must have at least 0. He torques the hardware, with a little blue Loctite on the threads, to in-lbs. Be sure you align the notch in the rocker shaft with the bolt hole on the right side of the support. The stock hardware, with some blue Loctite on the threads, is torqued to 16 ft-lbs.
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